Every time I enter The Chimney, I feel like I have been transported to another world. With its red brick, and warm lighting, and soft music, you wonder if you are in Nepal at all. But in actuality, this space is Nepal to its core - showing you a glimpse of a very specific time and the impact of a very specific person. Around you, reflected in the grand red-brick archways; filigreed wood rafters; the circular, copper fireplace (from which it got its name) you see the difficult marriage of east and west, a long-standing tradition of being fully Nepali and fully European, a whole generation glancing to the past, as they run toward their future.
But before we dig into the history, let us eat.
The Review
The Chimney’s menu is a time capsule of early 20th century Russian cuisine with a Nepali twist. Whether you have a cup of the borscht, a plate of steamed momos, or you splash out for the Chicken ala Kiev you are sure to get an amazing meal that you will not soon forget. But no matter what you order, you are sure to get a few extra samples sent from the grand kitchen - much to our surprise and pleasure.
The Chimney is for travelers that want to ‘get off the beaten track but in style. These types of restaurants no longer appeal to the typical trekker of Nepal, so you are sure to have a very unique experience. If you are in Kathmandu during the cold winter months ( December - February), the fire and velvet cushions offer a comforting respite. If you are here in the spring or summer, there does seem to be a beautiful outdoor patio that could be enjoyed, but I cannot speak from persona experience.
With all that said, here synopsis:
Food 8/10
Vibes 11/10
Price - High
History factor 11/10
History
And why is it 11/10 you might ask?? Because there is truly nothing like it. Between the building, it is in and the man that made it, The Chimney is infused with the power of the past. So lets jump in.
You cannot talk about The Chimney without talking first about the Yak and Yeti. This place deserves a further deep dive, but the key thing to know is that it was not originally a hotel, but the Lal Durbar (the red palace). The Lal Durpar acted as the residence of Jung Bahadur’s nephew, Bir Shamsher Rana. The Rana’s were known for their tradition of opulence as well as the great influence of the British Empire. Furnished from the workshops of Europe and constructed with red marble shipped from Italy (and carried from Calcutta) - the Lal Durbar was a statement of the perceived future of Nepal, an independent version of the British Raj. But it was not to be the Rana’s that brought Nepal into this westernized future that they dreamed of.
[Enter Boris Lissanevitch]
Boris was a man that took up space. His life took him to see the halls of the Russian ballet, the battlefields of the Russian revolution, and the seat of the British Raj in Calcutta. He seemed to have lived multiple lives and would have lived many more if his life was not limited to just 80 years.
During the 1940’s he started Club 300, an elite boys club in Calcutta - from fighter pilots in the British army to Maharajas gathered together to throw elaborate parties, leaving incredible bar bills in their wake. During one such event, Boris would broker power deals and make connections in the elite of Calcutta’s social circles and India’s politics. It is said, one such deal secured Prime Minister Nehru’s support of Tribhuvan Shah overthrow of the Rana dynasty.
By 1951, the Rana dynasty was deposed and King Tribhuvan Shah came to replace it. With this came the emergence of an outward-facing Nepal. After many months, Boris petitioned the Shah government to offer tourist visas to those coming on unofficial business, and finally they relented, allowing for 15 day tourist visas upon arrival (a policy they hold to this day - thank you Boris!). Finally, a country shrouded with such mystery allowed foreigners to enter its borders - and Boris knew they needed somewhere to stay, so in 1951, he opened the first international hotel- The Royal.
The Royal was constructed out of a Rana palace (not the Lal Durbar, another one.... they had many), and quickly became the venue for all foreign guests coming to Nepal, even housing the Queen of England. In the bar (called Yak and Yeti), Boris would sit and regale customers with his stories and exploits - quickly becoming 'one of the furniture" of Kathmandu.
In 1969, business declined and the Royal closed. In 1977, Boris had the opportunity to open The Chimney in the newly established Yak and Yeti hotel.
After an incredible life of adventure and intrigue, Boris died in 1985. The Chimney still stands as a lasting testament of so many things. The opulence of the Rana regime, its downfall at the hands of the Shah’s, the fascination that both dynasties had with the empires beyond its boarders, and the ushering in of a new era of tourism. For tourists coming to Nepal, this is a perfect stop for the history lover and those that love very niech culinary experiences.
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